Even a Neuropsychologist can Screw up their Hair Color when done at Home

This Wednesday’s beauty advice involves hair color, falling within the category of one of my biggest peeves: Coloring the hair at home! Eek!

The question began simple enough, but through further examination, I discovered Laurel needed additional hair color advice than the original query she had posed. Thankfully, we were able to save most of her hair, however, due to some ill advice from the clerk at Sally Beauty Supply in Texas, she did suffer about four inches of hair loss due to coloring the hair at home.

“Dee, I have a hair 911. I had multiple colored hair (red, blonde, gray). I used a color zap and now I have these products for color. (See photo) I rinsed out the color zap. Must my hair be dry to apply color? Thank you!

In further questioning Laurel, I uncovered a huge hair faux pas many women, including some of the most intelligent in the country, make when coloring the hair. Below is the hair color scenario that unfolded.

Deirdre: “No, it doesn’t have to be dry, it can be wet. Just towel dry it well.

Laurel: “So then I let those process and rinse till clear and use heavy conditioner? Am I missing a step?

Deirdre: “No that is correct-you can shampoo it but why are you using 40 volume developer?

Laurel: “The lady at Sally Beauty told me to. Is that wrong? I thought it was for maximum lift.

Deirdre: “It is ok…It is, but the clerks at Sally are not licensed and these products aren’t professional. Since I can’t see your roots and your amount of grey or the color you are looking for I am not sure I can give the best advice. 40-volume developer on the whole head will damage it.

Laurel: “Ok, it’s only on roots now. Shorter pull through time? Eek. Sorry but help

Deirdre: “Yes-your ends are light blonde already?

Laurel: “They are medium blonde. Faded red, and dishwater blonde (natural), but the color remover made it quite blonde, actually.

Deirdre: “Yeh-no more than 10 on the ends-I can’t see the box-is it double the developer and what is the recommended time-40 vol-should stay on about 40 minutes sometimes longer…but you used a color remover before and then the 40??? Eek-ok — only 5 on ends.”

The next day when I asked Laurel how her hair color was, she answered that her hair had been broken.

“Not as bad as I feared hair color wise, but it’s fried for sure. Even a neuropsychologist can screw up her hair color. That color zap and developer ate away my natural hair at the neckline (four inches new growth with no processing) just as bad as acid. You can quote me.”

Whew, that was a lot. Ok, so had I known about the color zap from the beginning, I would have told her not to use the 40-volume developer at all. That level of developer is used for highlighting, lifting the hair color three shades, or high-lift blondes, not for use after a color remover, which is what the color zap is.

The only hair color advice in this instance is to head to a salon and have the red removed professionally. Color removal of any sort, even when done by a licensed professional can compromise the integrity of the hair. Using a product from Sally Beauty, which is not used in salons, does double the damage.

About two years ago I was in Sally Beauty Supply on Long Island purchasing an inexpensive blow dryer for my son, as I would only buy tools from them, NEVER products. As I was on line, a young girl asked the clerk how to correct her hair color she used at home, which was a visible disaster. The very smart cashier advised the girl that she is not a licensed professional and could not correctly guide her. The girl then asked if she knew anyone who could help. Ha Ha! I happened to chime in with a, yes, I can and you need to head right over to a salon and have that fixed. Her young, smart ass self replied that she was a licensed professional. I then advised her to have the salon she worked in correct the mess she created, of which I received no further answer because she was lying.

The bottom line is this, hair coloring at home is not advisable and color correction and removal is definitely a no-no! It was already too late for Laurel as our conversation was transpiring while the color was already on her hair and the color remover had been used. She had to run it through the ends to even the tone, but by this time the damage had been done. Her ends were fried and her regrowth, the fine hair at the nape, had been broken off, four inches worth.

This is a problem in a tough economy where people want to save time and money by completing salon services at home. Laurel will now have to spend money on good products to restore the nutrition in the hair and have frequent haircuts to even up the broken strands.

Hair color is no joke, and the products for sale over the counter are not optimal. Professional salon hair color costs money because it does the proper job and is formulated for specific needs. Hair colorists who are worth their grain in salt are constantly continuing education to bring clients the latest and greatest in the industry.

While Laurel’s hair color is a striking blonde, aka Marilyn Monroe, it is very visible how damaged the hair is. My suggestion is as I have recommended above, receive a trim every 4-6 weeks. Get the best of the best products to nourish and condition the hair.

I recommend Pure Water Drops from IT&LY Hairfashion Purity Design line to be used on wet and dry hair. Shampoo and condition with another of my favorites from IT&LY, the Advanced Color Protection line. This is not a sales pitch. I have double processed hair and use these products. My hair is soft, healthy and shiny. Deep condition the hair once a week with the Deep Repair Masque from Macadamia Natural Oil Hair Care Products. Good hair care begins with proper nutrition. Eat a healthy protein rich diet and adding pure gelatin to food or beverages from Knox creates a strong cortex and will strengthen the nails.

Any hair color questions or beauty advice you’d like answered for this column on Wednesdays, please email me at Deirdreahaggerty@gmail.com.

Happy Styling!

©Deirdre Haggerty, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this article may be reproduced without prior written permission and consent from the author.